Bushmans Nek Hut 19 – 22 April, 2022
Report and photography Keith Ashton
Unfortunately,all the participants listed/booked for this outing cancelled for various reasons, except for the leader & his younger wife Margaret. So, Keith asLeader, plus Margaret in the dual role of Assistant Leader & Sweeper went on their own of course. This resulted in the next 3-nights/4-days being exceptionally peaceful & Margaret was incredibly happy as her dual roles were not needed. This peacefulness also made Keith think about joining the Solo Hiking Club, but then he remembered that Philip Grant was a member & there were no places left for new members.
Carrying on from the above tongue in cheek comments: –
DAY ONE: – The last 32km of dirt road to Bushmans Nek KZN Wildlife office was very muddy but we got through without too much trouble, even on the not recommended first turn off the tar. Then it was backpacking to the hut with Margaret carrying 13kg & me with 17kg (must be prepared for any weather & plenty of food & treats including Drambuie for me & Whisky for Margaret for our 3-nights).
Fortunately the weather was absolutely perfect & we arrived at the empty hut, then selected our room, complete with table & three chairs (luxury). In fact, we had the whole hut to ourselves for the entire period.
Hikers who are familiar with this hut know it is quite basic with no electricity & only cold water, but it is in a magnificent area & we love it.
We did our first hike up to the old look-out hut (derelict now), after settling into our room & enjoying lunch in such a peaceful setting. So, this was just an afternoon hike, uphill in the reverse direction along the Giants Cup Trail before branching off up the incredibly old jeep track to the look-out hut. However, we still did about 10 km on our first outing with quite a climb. Then we relaxed with our sundowners before a very enjoyable candle-lit supper (LED miniature candles – not wax). But soon it was time for bed for us oldies as it is pitch-dark outside at about 6-15pm. However, the view of the stars outside in the pitch-darkness was fantastic as was the moon later as it rose & shone through our hut window.
DAY TWO: – After a long night, we arose at 05h30 & had a body washing session in chilly water & later enjoyed a scrumptious leisurely breakfast with hot chocolate for me & cold coffee for Margaret. Then before 08h00 we were on our way from the hut climbing upwards through wet grass because of the dew, as it was another glorious day, reaching the Giants Cup Trail again after about 15 minutes. We continued up the trail towards Langalibalele Cave, but after a few kilometres, we turned left at a known spot for a bit of “off the beaten track” route towards several steep climbs up to Painters Cave via Reflection Tarn & Twin Rocks.
From Twin Rocks a narrow (partly overgrown) track is evident with a steep drop down into a deep valley is possible if you do not take care. Painters Cave is not on any maps, so you need to know this route. However, it is well worth a visit with an experienced leader as there are many impressive Bushman’s paintings in the cave. The return distance from the hut to the cave is about 13 km with a climb of about 600 metres. We relaxed in peace again on return to the hut in perfect weather with no one else in sight.
DAY THREE: – We were up at 05h00 today & after our similar morning routine, we decided to hike 3,4km from the hut to the New England Stud, located off the dirt road towards the Hotel. The area of the Stud Farm is massive & is owned by First Resorts who also own Bushmans Nek Hotel.
We have spoken with the owner of First Resorts on several occasions & he has granted us permission to hike on his land. We inform the staff before starting our hike. Our intended morning hike (before treating ourselves to lunch at the Pig & Pony on-site café) involved crossing a wide deep river (due to previous rains) but Margaret was wisely very apprehensive, so I changed my boots for water shoes, hitched up my shorts as far as possible & tried to cross the river assisted by two hiking sticks.
I did manage to get across but the water was nearly waist deep so I returned & we did another ‘’off the beaten track” hike & returned to the Pig & Pony café before 13h00 for lunch only to find Eskom loadshedding was in place until 14h00 so no food until then. So, we relaxed in comfortable chairs in a beautiful outdoor setting. I had two beers (thirsty work hiking in hot weather) & Margaret had a Ginger Ale.
We ordered our lunch which was prepared after 14h00 & thoroughly enjoyed before we hiked back the 3.4 km route to the hut, making our total distance of about 13km.
DAY FOUR: – We were up at 05h00 again & after breakfast & repacking all our stuff, returned to KZN Wildlife Office with slightly lighter backpacks. Then after signing the Mountain register & noting the positions of the eland & baboon groups we saw on our hikes, we returned home.
The 32km of dirt road was much drier than our arrival day. It was a wonderful time just on our own in perfect weather. Sorry that our other intended participants had to cancel & miss the experience, but here is to the next time.
